The Hope

April 2022

This was for a story about the traditional British caff for Observer Food Monthly.

View fullsize

I was sent, with food critic and wonderful writer Jay Rayner to spend a day at The Hope Workers Cafe, on the Holloway road in London. Jay had decided not to opt for the camera ready cafes like the Regency cafe or The Shepherdess cafe and instead go for a proper ‘Greacy Spoon’ which hadn’t made loads of appearances in geezer and cockney gangster movies.

We met Chris and Sue at 7am when they open, and the first customer came in shortly after that. They basically serve a full english Breakfast all day - all possible variations of egg, bacon, chips, bubble, beans, tomato mushrooms and tea. But Sue has been putting classic Greek dishes on the lunch menu which are also very popular, and tasty. Deserts are Banoffi pie, sticky toffee pudding and the other usual English suspects (more gangster references).

But despite the obvious charm and comfort of food that may or may not kill you, its not the only draw here.

The main event is the wonderfully friendly reception everyone get from Sue and Chris, so that they are made to feel at home and quickly become regulars after their first visit.

People are still instagramming their food in an ironic way, but the is no irony in the welcome and warmth you feel. This is a community hub and a place that is relaxed and is for everyone. During the pandemic, when it looked like they might have to close, the community rallied and supported them. At the same time they also created a ‘Pay it forward’ scheme where you can buy a meal for someone who cant afford it.

London can seem big and impersonal but it always has a Hope… cafe to stop and have a nice cup of tea at!

Please also check out Jay Rayners excellent article here.